Herringbone Laminate Flooring

How to choose herringbone laminate

AC rating and thickness

The AC rating tells you how hard-wearing the surface is: AC3 suits every room in a busy home, AC4 is better for hallways and family kitchens. Thicker boards (10mm to 12mm) feel more solid, sound quieter and hide small dips in the subfloor better than thinner ones; with herringbone’s many short joints, a firm feel underfoot is worth having.

Block size

Short, narrow blocks give a tight, traditional pattern that suits hallways and period homes; longer, wider blocks make a bolder, more modern floor in large rooms. Compare two sizes as samples on the floor.

Edges and texture

Bevelled edges outline each block so the pattern reads clearly, just like real parquet. An embossed surface that follows the grain looks more natural and gives better grip than a smooth one.

Water resistance

Standard laminate does not like standing water. For hallways and kitchens, choose a water-resistant herringbone laminate with sealed joints; for bathrooms, choose vinyl herringbone.

Planning and fitting herringbone laminate

Herringbone laminate comes as A and B boards (left- and right-hand), usually packed separately and needed in equal numbers. Before you start, decide the direction of the pattern: along the longest wall, the main line of sight or a hallway makes the room feel longer. Snap a centre line and work outwards so the pattern ends evenly at both walls.

1. Order about 10% extra for cutting waste, because every block at the wall is cut at an angle; our measuring guide shows how.
2. Let the packs acclimatise in the room for about 48 hours.
3. Lay a suitable laminate underlay (with a damp proof membrane on concrete) unless the boards have one attached.
4. Click the A and B boards together along the centre line, then build out row by row.
5. Leave an expansion gap at every wall and cover it with skirting or laminate beading; finish doorways with threshold strips.

Herringbone takes longer than plank laminate, but a patient DIYer can do it. Our installation guides walk you through the steps.

Looking after herringbone laminate

Vacuum often, because the many joints collect grit. Clean with a well-wrung mop and a laminate floor cleaner; never use a steam mop, which forces moisture into the joints, or polish, which leaves a slippery film.

Herringbone laminate or vinyl?

Both give the parquet pattern at a lower cost than real wood. Laminate has the more scratch-resistant surface and feels firmer, so it suits living rooms, bedrooms and dry hallways. Vinyl herringbone is water-resistant, softer and quieter underfoot, so it is the better choice for kitchens and bathrooms.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Ordering A and B boards in different quantities.
• Starting against a wall instead of a centre line, so the pattern runs off square.
• Skipping the underlay, which makes the many short boards sound hollow.

Herringbone laminate in open-plan spaces

In open-plan rooms, run the pattern along the longest sight line so it ties the spaces together, and avoid thresholds between areas where you can; a long, unbroken herringbone floor looks most impressive. Very large areas may need an expansion break, which the instructions explain.