Engineered Wood Flooring

How engineered wood flooring is made

Each board has two parts. The top layer, called the wear layer or lamella, is real hardwood, usually oak. Below it is a core of plywood or other timber layers glued with their grain running in alternating directions. Because each layer pulls against the next, the board resists the swelling and shrinking that makes solid planks cup and gap. The result looks exactly like solid wood once it is down, but is far more stable.

How to choose engineered wood flooring

Thickness and wear layer

Thickness is the whole board; the wear layer is the real wood on top. A 14mm board is ideal for most homes: it is very stable, works well with underfloor heating and keeps the floor height down. Boards of 20mm and more feel more substantial and suit heavy traffic and long-term durability. Look at the wear layer too: a board with a 3mm or thicker wear layer can typically be sanded one to two times, giving the floor a second life years from now. Thicker wear layers, such as 4mm and 6mm, allow more sanding still.

Width and length

Wide planks of 180mm and more suit open-plan spaces and make a room feel calm and generous. Narrower planks look traditional and work well in smaller rooms and hallways. Longer boards mean fewer joints and a cleaner look.

Grade

Prime grade boards have few knots and an even colour for a clean, modern floor. Rustic grades show knots, filled splits and colour variation for a lived-in character. Grade is about appearance, not strength.

Finish

Lacquered floors have a protective film that is easy to keep clean. Oiled floors have a natural, matt look and can be touched up locally. Brushing opens the grain for texture, hand-scraping gives a reclaimed feel, and unfinished boards are finished on site to the colour you choose.

Pattern

As well as straight planks, engineered oak comes in herringbone and chevron. See all patterned floors in our parquet flooring range.

Rooms and underfloor heating

Engineered wood works in living rooms, bedrooms, hallways, dining rooms and kitchens. Most of our engineered floors are compatible with underfloor heating, provided the floor surface stays below 27°C. Raise the heating slowly at the start of each heating season. For bathrooms and wet rooms, choose luxury vinyl instead.

Fitting engineered wood flooring

There are three ways to fit it. Click boards can float: they lock to each other and rest on an underlay, which is quick and suits most homes. Gluing down to a level screed or plywood gives the most solid feel and is best over underfloor heating. Secret nailing fixes tongue and groove boards to timber joists or a wooden subfloor. The product page shows the recommended method for each floor.

Whichever method you choose, let the packs settle in the room first, make sure the subfloor is clean, dry and level, use a damp-proof membrane on concrete, and leave an expansion gap at the walls covered by skirting or scotia. Our installation guide and underlay advice explain each step, and our measuring guide helps you work out how much you need.

Care

Use a microfibre mop, avoid excess water and clean with a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner. Felt pads under furniture and a good door mat keep the finish looking new for longer, and oiled floors benefit from an occasional coat of maintenance oil.