What Is Laminate Flooring? The Complete Guide
What is laminate flooring? Laminate is a man-made floor of click-together boards with a high-density fibreboard core, a photographic layer that shows wood or stone, and a tough clear top layer. It looks like real wood, resists scratches very well, is quick to fit and costs less than most other floors, but standard laminate does not like water.
Laminate flooring at a glance
| What it is | A printed wood or stone design on a high-density fibreboard (HDF) core, under a clear wear-resistant overlay |
|---|---|
| Thickness | 6mm to 14mm; 8mm for lighter use, 10mm to 12mm for living areas and hallways |
| Durability | Graded AC3 (busy homes) to AC5 (heavy commercial use) |
| Water | Standard boards swell if wet; water-resistant boards suit kitchens and hallways; not for bathrooms |
| Underfloor heating | Most boards are suitable with the right underlay |
| Fitting | Floating: boards click together over an underlay; very DIY-friendly |
| Can it be sanded? | No; worn or damaged boards are replaced |
How laminate flooring is made
A laminate board is pressed together from four layers under heat and pressure:
- Overlay: a clear, very hard layer of resin (often with aluminium oxide) that protects against scratches, stains and fading. This is what the AC rating measures.
- Décor layer: a high-resolution photograph of wood or stone printed on paper.
- Core: high-density fibreboard (HDF) made from compressed wood fibres. It gives the board its strength and its click joint.
- Balancing layer: a backing that keeps the board flat and stops it bowing. Some boards also have an underlay bonded underneath.
Good laminate is “embossed in register”: the surface texture follows the printed grain, so knots and grain lines feel real, not just look real. Laminate is not real wood: the wood look is a picture, which is why it cannot be sanded. If you want a real wood surface, see our engineered wood flooring guide.
AC ratings explained
Laminate is tested to a European standard (EN 13329) and given an abrasion class, or AC rating, that tells you how hard-wearing the surface is.
| Rating | Suits |
|---|---|
| AC3 | Every room in a busy home |
| AC4 | Heavy domestic use (hallways, family kitchens) and general commercial areas such as offices and small shops |
| AC5 | Heavy commercial traffic |
A higher AC rating does not change the look or the water resistance; it means the surface keeps its looks for longer under wear.
Thickness: 6mm to 14mm
| Thickness | Best for |
|---|---|
| 6mm to 7mm | Tight floor heights and light use |
| 8mm | Good value for bedrooms and lighter use |
| 10mm to 12mm | Living rooms, hallways, family homes: more solid and quieter |
| 14mm | The most solid feel; hides small dips in the subfloor best |
Thicker boards feel more like real wood underfoot and sound quieter, but the AC rating, not the thickness, tells you how hard-wearing the surface is.
Looks, edges and textures
- Wood effects: oak in every shade, from light oak and natural oak to grey and dark oak, plus walnut, hickory and maple.
- Stone and tile effects: tile, slate and marble looks.
- Patterns: herringbone and chevron laminate give a parquet look for less.
- Plank size: wide planks look modern and spacious; long boards mean fewer joints.
- Edges: bevelled (V-groove) edges outline each board like real planks; square edges give a smoother, more continuous floor.
- Surface: textured or distressed surfaces look more natural and are less slippery; high-gloss laminate is sleek and reflective but shows footprints and scratches more.
Is laminate flooring waterproof?
Standard laminate is not. If water gets into the joints or the edges, the fibreboard core soaks it up and swells, and swollen boards do not go back. Water-resistant laminate has a treated core and sealed joints, so it copes with everyday spills, wet shoes and mopping, and suits kitchens, hallways and utility rooms. It is still not the right floor for a bathroom, where standing water, steam and leaks are common: choose luxury vinyl there.
Where you can use laminate flooring
| Room | Suitable? | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Living room, dining room, bedroom | Yes | An acoustic underlay keeps it quiet, especially upstairs |
| Hallway | Yes | AC4 and a water-resistant board; a good door mat |
| Kitchen | Only water-resistant laminate | Wipe spills straight away; mats by the sink and dishwasher |
| Conservatory | Yes, with care | Blinds limit heat and fading; leave the full expansion gap |
| Offices, shops | Yes | AC4 or AC5 |
| Bathroom, shower room, wet room | No | Choose luxury vinyl |
Laminate and underfloor heating
Most laminate can go over underfloor heating, as long as you use an underlay made for it (a low TOG rating lets the heat through) and keep the floor within the manufacturer’s temperature limit, usually 27°C at the surface. Raise the heating slowly at the start of each season. See laminate flooring for underfloor heating.
How laminate flooring is fitted
Laminate is a floating floor: the boards click to each other, not to the subfloor, and the whole floor rests on an underlay. That is why it is one of the easiest floors to fit yourself.
Before you start
- Measure and order: add about 5% for cutting waste (10% for herringbone and chevron) and round up to full packs. See our measuring guide.
- Acclimatise: leave the unopened packs flat in the room for about 48 hours at normal temperature.
- Check the subfloor: clean, dry and flat. Remove carpet and its underlay first; laminate cannot go over carpet.
- Choose the underlay: foam for value, fibreboard to smooth small bumps and add sound insulation, and an underlay with a damp proof membrane on concrete. Skip it only if the boards have underlay attached. Our underlay guide explains each type, and you can shop laminate flooring underlay.
While you fit
- Leave an expansion gap at every wall, pipe and doorway, usually 8 to 10mm (follow the instructions), and never fix the boards down.
- Very large or long rooms, and floors running through doorways, may need an expansion break covered by a profile.
- Mix boards from several packs and stagger the end joints by at least 30cm.
- Finish with skirting, laminate beading or scotia, door bars and pipe covers.
Our flooring installation guides include a step-by-step laminate guide.
Caring for laminate flooring
- Vacuum or sweep often: grit wears any floor.
- Clean with a well-wrung mop and a laminate floor cleaner. Never flood the floor.
- Do not use a steam mop: steam forces moisture into the joints. See can you steam clean laminate floors?
- Do not wax or polish laminate; it does not need it and polish leaves a slippery film.
- Felt pads under furniture, and door mats at every outside door.
- Small chips can be filled with a laminate repair kit; a badly damaged board can be replaced by unclicking the rows to it.
Laminate compared with other floors
| Laminate | Luxury vinyl | Engineered wood | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surface | Printed design under a hard overlay | Printed design under a vinyl wear layer | Real wood |
| Scratches | Very scratch-resistant | Good | Can scratch, but can be refinished |
| Water | Not for bathrooms; water-resistant boards for kitchens | Highly water-resistant | Not for bathrooms |
| Feel and sound | Harder; quieter with a good underlay | Soft, warm, quiet | Warm and natural |
| Can be sanded | No | No | Yes |
| Price | Usually the most affordable | Usually a little more | Usually the most |
More detail: engineered wood vs laminate and the LVT vs laminate section of our luxury vinyl guide.
Pros and cons of laminate flooring
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Very scratch-resistant: good with pets and children | Standard boards swell if they get wet |
| Usually the most affordable wood look | Cannot be sanded or refinished |
| Quick, clean, DIY-friendly click fitting | Harder underfoot and noisier than vinyl or wood without a good underlay |
| Realistic wood and stone looks, including herringbone | Not suitable for bathrooms |
| Resists fading and stains; easy to clean | A damaged board means unclicking rows to replace it |
How to choose your laminate floor
- Check the room: how busy it is, whether it gets wet, and whether it has underfloor heating.
- Choose the AC rating: AC3 for most rooms, AC4 for hallways and busy kitchens.
- Choose the thickness: 8mm for value, 10mm to 12mm for a more solid, quieter floor.
- Water-resistant or standard: water-resistant for kitchens, hallways and utility rooms.
- Choose the look: colour, plank size, edges and texture.
- Add the underlay and trims (see our accessories guide), then order free samples to compare them in your own light.
Browse all our laminate flooring, or request a callback and a flooring expert will help you choose.
Frequently asked questions
No. The core is made of compressed wood fibres, but the wood you see is a high-resolution photograph under a clear protective layer. That is why laminate cannot be sanded. For a real wood surface, see our engineered wood flooring guide.
Four layers pressed together: a balancing layer underneath, a high-density fibreboard (HDF) core, a printed décor layer, and a hard, clear overlay on top.
Yes, if you choose a water-resistant laminate with sealed joints, and wipe up spills straight away. Standard laminate can swell if water gets into the joints. See kitchen laminate flooring.
A good laminate floor lasts for many years. Its life depends on the AC rating, a good underlay, keeping it dry and keeping grit off it with mats and regular vacuuming.
No. The design is a printed layer only a fraction of a millimetre thick, so sanding would remove it. Worn or damaged boards are replaced instead.
A floating floor can sound hollow or "clicky" when the underlay is too thin or the subfloor is uneven. A good acoustic or fibreboard underlay and a flat subfloor make laminate much quieter.
No. Carpet and its underlay are too soft: the click joints flex and break. Lift the carpet and its gripper strips first and lay a proper laminate underlay.
Yes, if they are sound, firmly fixed and level. Fill large grout lines or dips, and screw down loose boards. Lay the laminate across the floorboards and use a suitable underlay.
Small chips and scratches can be filled with a laminate repair kit in a matching colour. A badly damaged board is replaced: unclick the rows from the nearest wall, swap the board and click them back.
Smooth and high-gloss laminate can be slippery in socks or when wet. Textured, embossed surfaces give much better grip; keep the floor dry and avoid polish, which leaves a slippery film.
Usually parallel to the longest wall or towards the main source of light, so the joints are less visible and the room looks longer. Over floorboards, lay the laminate across them.
Laminate resists fading much better than real wood, because the clear overlay protects the printed layer. Blinds are still a good idea in very sunny rooms and conservatories to limit heat on the floor.
