Unfinished solid wood flooring is raw solid oak, hardwood through the full thickness, delivered with no oil or lacquer, so it can be laid, sanded flat and finished on site in exactly the colour and sheen you want. Unfinished solid oak flooring is the traditional way to lay a wood floor: because it is sanded after laying, the boards end up perfectly level with each other, and the finish seals across the joints for a smooth, seamless surface.
Solid oak flooring unfinished on site can be oiled natural, white, grey or smoked, stained in any tone, or lacquered for low maintenance, and it can be matched to an existing floor in another room. Because it is solid, it can be sanded and refinished many times over its life. It is usually nailed to joists or a timber subfloor, or glued to a dry subfloor; see 18mm solid wood and 20mm solid wood.
For concrete floors, kitchens and underfloor heating, unfinished engineered oak is usually the better choice. See every raw floor in unfinished wood flooring and unfinished parquet. Finish it with wood floor oil. Our solid wood guide explains grades and fitting.
Not sure which floor is right? Order free samples and see them in your own light, or call our team on 020 3287 6206 for honest, no-pressure advice.
Colour
Finish
Price per m²
- £30 – £39.99 (1)
Floor Style
- Herringbone (1)
- Herringbone / Parquet (1)
Thickness
- 18 1
Species
- Oak (1)
Grade
- Rustic (1)
Width
- Up to 100mm (1)
Length
Joining Method
- Tongue & Groove (1)
Room Suitability
- Bedroom (1)
- Dining Room (1)
- Hallway (1)
- Living Room (1)
- Study / Office (1)
Aurea Natural Unfinished Rustic Solid Oak Herringbone Flooring 18 x 90mm
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Aurea Natural Unfinished Rustic Solid Oak Herringbone Flooring 18 x 90mm
Why choose unfinished solid wood?
- Any colour: finish it in exactly the tone you want, or match an existing floor.
- A perfectly level surface: sanding after laying removes small height differences between boards.
- Sealed joints: the finish goes over the joints, helping keep spills on the surface.
- Square edges: many unfinished boards have square edges, for a smooth, traditional floor.
- A floor for generations: solid oak can be sanded and refinished many times.
What to plan for
An unfinished floor is a two-stage job: laying, then sanding and finishing. Sanding is dusty work; finishing takes two or more coats, each with drying time, and the room cannot be used until the finish has cured. Most people use an experienced floor fitter and sander. Plan the time and cost of finishing alongside the boards.
How an unfinished solid floor is finished
- Lay the boards, nailed or glued, and leave any adhesive to cure.
- Sand with progressively finer grits to level the floor and remove marks.
- Vacuum thoroughly and remove every trace of dust.
- Test colours on an offcut sanded the same way, then apply stain or coloured oil if wanted.
- Apply the finish: hardwax oil for a natural, repairable look, or lacquer for low maintenance.
- Let it cure before heavy use, rugs and furniture.
Choosing the finish
Hardwax oil: natural, matt and spot-repairable; needs regular maintenance. Water-based lacquer: sealed and low maintenance, available in matt finishes that look natural. Coloured oils and stains: white, grey, smoked and dark tones; oak varies, so always test first.
Fitting unfinished solid wood
Acclimatise the boards in the room, check moisture in boards and subfloor, and leave an expansion gap. Nail to joists at the maker’s spacing, or glue with a solid wood flooring adhesive. Protect the raw boards from dirt, water and footprints until they are finished, and fill open knots with wood floor filler before the final sanding. Our installation guides explain the methods.
Where unfinished solid wood works best
Period homes: new solid boards over joists, finished to suit the house. Extensions: matching a new floor to an existing one. Design-led projects: where the floor colour must suit a scheme. Not ideal: over underfloor heating, in kitchens, or on damp concrete. Never: bathrooms.
Grade and width
Rustic grades are characterful and hide wear; select grades look calm. Standard widths move less than very wide boards, which are often glued as well as nailed.
Matching an existing floor
Unfinished boards are the best way to extend an existing wood floor into a new room or extension. Lay the new boards, sand them together with the old floor where they meet, and finish both in the same oil or lacquer, so the join almost disappears. Test the colour on sanded offcuts of the new boards next to the old floor first, because older oak has usually deepened in colour.
Comparing samples at home
Order free samples of two or three options and put them on the floor of the room where they will be laid. Look at them in daylight and in the evening under your own lamps, next to the walls, skirting, units and furniture they will sit with. Colours and textures look different in every room and on every screen, so a few minutes with real samples is the best way to avoid a costly mistake. Stand back as well as looking close up: a floor is mostly seen from standing height and from the doorway.
With unfinished wood, finish a few offcuts in the colours you are considering and look at them in the room: raw samples cannot show the final colour.
Common mistakes
- Choosing a colour without testing it on sanded oak.
- Walking on raw boards with dirty shoes before finishing.
- Putting rugs and furniture back before the finish has cured.
- Solid wood over underfloor heating.
FAQs on Unfinished Solid Wood Flooring
Raw solid oak boards with no finish, sanded and finished on site after laying.
For a custom colour, a perfectly level surface and a finish that seals across the joints.
It is sanded after laying, then oiled, stained or lacquered, with drying time between coats.
It is possible, but sanding and finishing take skill. Most people use a professional.
Yes, glued to a dry, flat slab after a moisture test.
Light use once the final coat is dry; rugs and heavy furniture only once it has fully cured.
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