Solid Wood Flooring

How to choose solid wood flooring

Grade: how the boards look

Grade describes the appearance of the wood, not its quality or strength. Prime grade boards have few, small knots and an even colour, which gives a calm, contemporary floor. Select and natural grades allow a few more knots and some colour change. Rustic grade shows larger knots, filled splits and plenty of variation between boards, which suits cottages, period homes and anyone who wants a floor with character. Put two grades side by side as samples before you decide; the difference is much clearer in your own room than in photographs.

Thickness and width

Solid boards are usually 18–20mm thick. What matters for the floor’s lifespan is the wood above the tongue: the more there is, the more times the floor can be sanded and refinished. Width changes the look. Narrow boards around 90–130mm look traditional and move less with the seasons; wide boards of 180mm and more show off the grain and make a big room feel calm, but they need a carefully controlled environment, because wider boards move more as humidity changes.

Finish

A lacquered finish forms a thin protective film on the surface, from matt to satin, and is the easiest to clean. An oiled finish soaks into the wood for a natural, low-sheen look; scratches and worn areas can be re-oiled locally without sanding the whole floor. Brushed and hand-scraped surfaces bring out the grain and help to hide everyday marks. Unfinished boards are sanded, stained and sealed after fitting, so you can choose the exact colour and sheen on site.

Where solid wood works best

Solid wood is natural timber, so it takes in and gives out moisture as the air changes. That makes it ideal for rooms with a steady temperature and humidity: living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, studies and hallways. It is not suitable for bathrooms, and in kitchens, conservatories and basements it can cup or gap as conditions change. For those rooms we recommend engineered wood or luxury vinyl.

Underfloor heating

Only some solid boards are approved for underfloor heating, usually narrower boards, and the heating has to be brought up to temperature slowly. If you have, or plan to fit, underfloor heating, check the specification of the floor you like, or choose engineered wood, which is designed for it.

Fitting solid wood flooring

Leave the unopened packs in the room for a few days before fitting so the wood can adjust to its new home. Solid boards are normally secret-nailed to timber joists or a plywood subfloor, or fully bonded to a dry, level screed with a flexible wood floor adhesive. Concrete must be tested for moisture and protected with a damp-proof membrane where needed. Leave an expansion gap of around 10–15mm at every wall and hide it with skirting or scotia beading. Measure each room with our measuring guide and add a cutting allowance. Solid wood is best laid by an experienced fitter; ask us and we will put you in touch with trusted installers. Our installation guide explains each method.

Looking after a solid wood floor

Grit is what wears a wood floor, so vacuum or sweep regularly and put a mat at every outside door. Clean with a well-wrung microfibre mop and a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner; never flood the floor with water. Felt pads under chairs and table legs stop most scratches. Oiled floors benefit from a fresh coat of maintenance oil every year or two in busy areas. When the floor eventually looks tired, it can be sanded back and refinished to look new, which is the great advantage of solid wood.