Oak parquet flooring is the classic pattern floor: real oak blocks laid in herringbone, chevron or traditional block patterns that have graced British homes for centuries. Oak is the natural choice for parquet because it is hard-wearing, stable and beautifully grained, and it takes oils, stains and smoking well, so an oak parquet floor can look anything from light and Scandi to rich and dark.
The most popular pattern is oak herringbone, with blocks laid in a zigzag; oak chevron has angled blocks that meet in a continuous V. Choose engineered parquet for stability, underfloor heating and concrete floors, or solid wood parquet for the traditional, very long-lasting floor that can be sanded many times. Tones run from light parquet to dark parquet.
See every pattern in parquet flooring, including parquet flooring tiles, or the oak plank alternative in oak flooring. Our parquet flooring guide explains patterns, construction and fitting.
Not sure which floor is right? Order free samples and see them in your own light, or call our team on 020 3287 6206 for honest, no-pressure advice.
Colour
Finish
Price per m²
- £20 – £29.99 (3)
Floor Style
- Herringbone (3)
- Herringbone / Parquet (3)
Thickness
- 14 3
Species
- Oak (3)
Grade
- Rustic (3)
Wear Layer
- 2 (3)
Width
- Up to 100mm (3)
Length
Joining Method
- Tongue & Groove (3)
Room Suitability
- Bedroom (3)
- Conservatory (3)
- Dining Room (3)
- Hallway (3)
- Kitchen (3)
- Living Room (3)
- Study / Office (3)
Nihon Natural Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Nihon Smoked Grey Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Nihon White Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Filters By
Nihon Natural Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Nihon Smoked Grey Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Nihon White Brushed & Oiled Rustic Engineered Oak Herringbone Flooring 14/2 x 90mm
Oak parquet patterns
- Herringbone: rectangular blocks laid at right angles in a zigzag. Lively and timeless; the most popular pattern.
- Chevron: blocks cut at an angle so the ends meet in a point, forming a continuous V. Sleek and elegant.
- Double and triple herringbone: blocks laid in pairs or threes, a bolder look for larger rooms.
- Basketweave and block: squares of parallel blocks at right angles, a traditional geometric pattern.
- Borders: a frame of blocks round the edge of a room, a traditional finishing touch.
Solid or engineered oak parquet?
Solid oak parquet: each block is solid oak through its whole thickness. It can be sanded many times over its life, but moves more with humidity, so it is usually glued to a dry, stable subfloor and is less suited to underfloor heating. Engineered oak parquet: a real oak top layer on a stable core. It moves much less, suits concrete, underfloor heating and kitchens, and is often available with click joints. Check the top layer depth: it decides how often the floor can be sanded.
How to choose oak parquet
Grade
Prime and select: few knots, even colour; calm and refined. Natural: some knots and variation; the most popular. Rustic: bold knots and colour variation; characterful and forgiving of wear.
Finish
Oiled: a natural, matt look that is easy to spot-repair. Lacquered: a tougher surface layer that needs less maintenance. Unfinished: sanded and finished on site, for a seamless, custom colour.
Tone
Natural oak is warm and classic; white-oiled and light oak are bright and Scandi; smoked and dark oak are rich and dramatic; grey oak is modern.
Block size
Larger blocks suit large rooms and modern homes; smaller, traditional blocks suit period homes and hallways.
Where oak parquet works
Living rooms, dining rooms, hallways and bedrooms are ideal. Engineered parquet can go in kitchens with a durable finish; see parquet kitchen flooring. Never lay wood parquet in a bathroom; for a wet room, choose a parquet vinyl instead.
Planning an oak parquet floor
Run the pattern along the main line of sight, such as from the front door or towards the main window, and start from a centre line so the cut blocks are even at both walls. Order 10% to 15% extra for cutting waste, more for small rooms and borders; our measuring guide explains how.
Fitting oak parquet
Parquet is usually glued down with a wood floor adhesive to a dry, flat, primed subfloor; click engineered parquet can float over an underlay. Acclimatise the blocks, keep left and right blocks separate and leave an expansion gap at the walls. Pattern floors take skill: most people use an experienced fitter. Our installation guides explain the steps.
Comparing samples at home
Order free samples of two or three options and put them on the floor of the room where they will be laid. Look at them in daylight and in the evening under your own lamps, next to the walls, skirting, units and furniture they will sit with. Colours and textures look different in every room and on every screen, so a few minutes with real samples is the best way to avoid a costly mistake. Stand back as well as looking close up: a floor is mostly seen from standing height and from the doorway.
Looking after oak parquet
Vacuum regularly, use felt pads, door mats and a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner, and refresh oiled floors with wood floor oil when they look dry.
Common mistakes
- Starting the pattern from a wall that is not square.
- Solid parquet over underfloor heating it is not approved for.
- Ordering only 5% extra for a pattern floor.
FAQs on Oak Parquet Flooring
Oak is hard-wearing, stable and beautifully grained, and it takes oils, stains and smoking well.
Engineered for underfloor heating, concrete and kitchens; solid for the longest life, sanded many times, on a stable subfloor.
Yes. Choose a durable lacquer or hardwax oil finish and put a door mat at the entrance.
Yes. Solid parquet can be sanded many times; engineered parquet as often as its top layer allows.
About 10% to 15% for cutting waste, more for small rooms and borders.
Click engineered parquet is possible for a patient DIYer; glue-down parquet is best left to an experienced fitter.
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