Engineered Oak Flooring

How to choose engineered oak flooring

Thickness and wear layer

Engineered oak is described by two numbers, such as 14/3: a 14mm board with a 3mm oak top layer. The overall thickness decides how solid the floor feels; the oak layer decides how many times it can be sanded. A 14/3 or 15/4 board suits most homes and works well over underfloor heating; 20mm boards with a 4mm to 6mm oak layer feel the most solid and can be sanded more times. A 3mm or thicker oak layer can typically be sanded one to two times.

Core

Multi-ply cores (several thin sheets of plywood glued crossways) are very stable and the usual choice for wide boards and underfloor heating. Three-layer cores (a middle layer of softwood strips) are also stable and often a little lighter.

Grade

Grade describes how the oak looks. Prime oak has few, small knots and an even colour for a calm, modern floor. Natural or select grade allows some knots and colour change, the most popular balance. Rustic oak shows larger knots, filled splits and strong variation, and hides everyday wear in busy homes.

Colour and treatment

Natural oak is honey-toned and deepens gently with light. White-washed and light oaks keep rooms bright. Smoked oak is darkened by a treatment that reacts with the oak’s tannins, giving a rich colour that goes into the wood. Grey and dark stains suit modern and dramatic schemes. Colour varies between boards, which is part of oak’s character, so always look at samples.

Finish

Lacquer forms a hard-wearing film from matt to satin and is the easiest to keep clean; it suits kitchens and hallways. Oil soaks in for a natural look and feel, and scratches can be touched up locally. Brushing opens the grain for texture that hides small marks; hand-scraped oak looks reclaimed; unfinished oak is finished on site to the exact colour you want.

Width and pattern

Engineered oak can be made much wider than solid oak because the core keeps it flat. Wide planks of 180mm and more show off the grain in open-plan rooms; narrower planks suit hallways and period homes; oak herringbone and chevron turn the floor into a feature.

Engineered oak or solid oak?

Both have a real oak surface and look the same once down. Choose engineered oak for underfloor heating, concrete subfloors, kitchens, conservatories and wide boards; choose solid oak for rooms with a steady climate over timber joists, if you want to sand the floor many times over its life. See our solid wood guide for the comparison.

Fitting engineered oak

Click engineered oak floats over an underlay and suits careful DIYers. Glue-down boards are bonded with a wood floor adhesive for the most solid feel and the best heat transfer from underfloor heating. Tongue and groove boards can also be secret nailed to joists. Let the packs acclimatise for 24 to 72 hours, leave an expansion gap of about 10 to 15mm and cover it with oak skirting or oak beading. Our installation guides explain each method.

Looking after engineered oak

Sweep or vacuum to remove grit, clean with a well-wrung mop and a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner, and use felt pads and door mats. Oiled oak needs an occasional coat of maintenance oil; lacquered oak can be re-coated when it looks tired.